Southie: Home of the best Pierogies in Boston

Much like the North End and its large Italian population, people often associate South Boston with its Irish population.  But the neighborhood is actually made up of a great many different groups, including what was once a sizable Polish community.  In fact, the area between Boston Street, Dorchester Avenue and Columbia road is known as the Polish Triangle.  While the population is declining (as this well-written piece in the Boston Globe covers), evidence of the Polish community still exists throughout the area.

My great-grandparents were married at Our Lady of Czestochowa church back in the early 1900s.  At that time the Polish community in South Boston and Dorchester was quite large, and it would grow even larger as immigrants from Poland moved as a result of World War II and during the Solidarity movement.

Many of the younger generation has since moved on to cities like Randolph and Stoughton, but during the holidays hundreds of families return to the area to celebrate (in large part because Our Lady is the only church in the Boston area that offers daily mass in Polish).  With Poles ready to get their Easter on, the Polish Triangle is ready to once again serve as the destination for the Polish community to congregate in the Boston area.

It’s also where I chose to start this next itinerary…

Itinerary:

Afternoon: Lunch at Café Polonia, then explore Dorchester Heights
Evening: Dinner and Cocktails at Franklin Southie

 

Cafe Polonia

Afternoon:  Lunch at Café Polonia

Located just a few minutes from the Andrew Square T stop is Café Polonia, one of the few Polish restaurants in Boston.  Started by the same family that owns the Baltic European Deli across the street, this is the place to go for homemade Polish fare.

So, what should one order when at Café Polonia?  What is traditional Polish cuisine, even?  It’s certainly not Coconut Shrimp, which has somehow found its way onto the Café Polonia menu. But besides that little hiccup, this is a pretty authentic menu as far as I can see.

Poland may not have the same culinary reputation that other groups have, but they’ve done their part to make my stomach happy! Kielbasa, pierogies, and barszcz are all crowd favorites, and of course the crowning achievement of Polish cuisine is the invention of vodka.  Vodka is an aggressive choice for lunch, so let’s kick things off with a Polish brew.  Café Polonia place has several different offerings, from Zywiec to Tyskie and Okocim. In Poland the ladies will often get a shot of raspberry syrup in their beers – it’s an off-menu request, but they’ll serve it here too.

Mmm…

Soup is a big part of Polish cuisine.  While barszcz is as delicious as it’s hard to pronounce, I’d recommend checking out the soups of the day to see what they offer.  When I went most recently they had a great mushroom soup.

For the main entrée I go with my favorite – pierogies.  These little dumplings are served with many different stuffings – meat, cheese and potato, sweet cheese, mushroom and cabbage, etc.  I went with half meat, half sweet cheese. Served with onions and sour cream, this lunch hits the spot and is a great introduction to Polish cuisine.

Get in my belly!

 

About a 15 minute walk from Café Polonia is Dorchester Heights.  Why call this place Dorchester Heights if it’s located in Southie?  Dorchester used to be a lot bigger than it is today (which is saying something, considering Dot is the biggest neighborhood in Boston), and at one point Dorchester Heights was in Dorchester.

Dorchester Heights – come for the view!

Great, so what is this place and why should you go?  This is a location of historical significance that doesn’t get the same attention as other locations on the Freedom Trail.  There is a monument here (designed by the same firm that created the Custom House Tower in Boston) commemorating the role the area played in the Revolutionary War.

It was at this location (one of the highest natural geographic locations in Boston) that revolutionary troops gathered and occupied after the defeat of Bunker Hill, where they were able to regroup and build fortifications that forced British Troops to eventually withdraw from the city. That’s a BFD, no?

So, if you’re looking for a new place to visit, this is a beautiful park to walk around and explore on a nice day.

Evening: Dinner and drinks at Franklin Southie

If you haven’t noticed a trend yet, I enjoy a good drink.  I’ve tried to incorporate a good cocktail destination in each of my posts, and I was looking to continue that trend here.  I had heard good things about Franklin Southie but hadn’t had a chance to visit until last night. Being just a five minute drive from Dorchester Heights, I decided to give it a try.  I’m glad I did.

While the cocktails here may not be the same mixologist-level quality of other places I’ve recently reviewed, the drinks are tasty and bar is worthy of a visit.  They offer their own infusions, and provide a good selection of beers on tap.  While I did not have an opportunity to try any of the food here, what was coming out of the kitchen looked delicious (including their very own pig roast!).  With great ambiance, a fun vibe and what looks like outdoor patio space, I plan to come here in the future.

The bar at Franklin Southie

 

So, what did you think? What would you have done differently if you were writing a one-day itinerary for the Southie? Share your thoughts with us in our comments section. Cheers!

Alex: I like to make the most of my day, especially when visiting a new place. My itineraries tend to pack in as much as possible – attractions, museums, etc. – with stops for a drink between destinations. I love visiting main sites, but do my best to locate something off the beaten path that other tourists may not know about.

BOSTON’S NORTH END: CONNECTING WITH THE NEIGHBORHOOD

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Yes, the irony isn’t lost on me that today’s post is dedicated to a neighborhood known for its Italian population, but these days even the North End celebrates this holiday, right? Obviously festivities there are more subdued than in neighborhoods like Southie, but with the old guard thinning even the North End sees its share of green come March.

IRREGARDLESS, the remainder of this itinerary has nothing to do with Boston’s favorite drinking holiday. We already covered off on St. Patrick’s Day in Diana’s post, and unfortunately if you’re looking for tips on the St. Patrick’s Day parade that float has already passed (See what I did there? I’ll see myself out).

So, what do we have on the docket for my North End itinerary?

Itinerary:

Morning: Breakfast at Theo’s Cozy Corner
Afternoon: Bocce and Pizza
Evening: Roam the streets, then dinner/drinks at Ward 8

Morning: Breakfast at Theo’s Cozy Corner

Looking for a cozy breakfast spot? Like, just-a-few-tables-better-get-there-early cozy? Then the aptly named Theo’s is the place for you. This small restaurant is a great place for a fast and cheap (cash-only) meal to kick-start your day in the North End. Assuming you get there before a line forms, which can happen on the weekends.  Grab yourself their breakfast special of eggs, toast and sausage and you’re ready to start the day!

Theo’s … with Old North Church right in the distance.

Afternoon: Bocce and Pizza

Most think of soccer when it comes to Italy and sports, but I prefer Italy’s faster-paced sporting alternative. No, not F1. I’m talking about the beautiful sport of bocce.  A poor man’s curling, bocce is played by two teams who compete by trying to throw their bocce balls closest to the target (a smaller ball known as the “jack”).  The team with the closest ball to the jack is the only team that can score in a round, and they receive one point for each ball that is closer to the jack than the closest ball of the other team.

James brought up the good point in his recent South End post that it can be hard to come up with things to do when it’s freezing outside. Bocce is similar in that it’s ideally done in nice weather, but we’re close enough to spring that I’m going to recommend it. Besides, what’s manlier than playing bocce when its 40 degrees out? HUH?

Don’t mess with this guy.

Puopolo Park on Commercial Street has three bocce courts that are well worth a visit.  Most days and nights (at least during the summer) you’ll see people playing bocce here. And if playing isn’t your thing, it’s still worth checking out. Mingling with the small crowds that gather while enjoying the park and Charles River is a great way to connect with the neighborhood and see a different side of the North End.  It’s a short walk from Hanover Street, so you shouldn’t have any problems getting there.

Remember that old Pizza Hut commercial where the little league team loses their shit after their right fielder makes a routine catch to end the game?  I must have watched that commercial a billion times because it was on the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles (the movie!) VHS and fast-forwarding a VHS was a royal pain.  That right there is an example of great marketing – 15 years after the fact and I still connect pizza with post-sports meal celebrations. It’s just too bad there aren’t any Pizza Huts in Boston for us to go celebrate at after bocce. AND NOW YOU PEOPLE ARE TAKING SBARRO AWAY FROM ME?

Well since I’ve got pizza on the brain, we might as well go to Regina Pizzaria.  Anyone living in Boston knows this chain.  It all started here in the North End, and dining at this location is a good thing to knock off your Boston bucket list.  Is it the best pizza you’ll ever have? Of course not! But it’s tasty and worth visiting at least once.

A peek inside Regina Pizzaria … or is it Pizzaria Regina?

Tip: seating is limited inside and lines form out the door to eat here. But if all you want is pizza, you can skip the entire line and head straight for the register for pizza to go (limited to cheese and pepperoni slices). There are parks right close by, so instead of eating in the dimly lit establishment, save yourself the wait and just enjoy your pizza outdoors.

Park bench pizza. Yum!

Evening: Roam the streets, then dinner/drinks at Ward 8

The North End has a wonderful charm to it. The people obviously play a role, but I really enjoy the architecture here. Wandering its narrow (occasionally trash-filled) streets, lined with red brick buildings and occasional cobblestone, leaves me thinking of bygone days. I would advise walking around and seeing what you discover.  Hanover Street is where the action is, but there are plenty of cute side streets worthy of exploration.

We’re finishing up today’s itinerary with a trip to Ward 8.  This bar/restaurant is named after the Ward 8, an old cocktail from the late 1800s that originated in Boston. First invented in the (now defunct) Locke-Ober, the cocktail was supposedly named in honor of a politician who won election thanks in large part to victory in Boston’s Ward 8 district.

I haven’t dined here before so I can’t speak to the quality of the food, but they make a fine cocktail.  Of course, one would be wise to order their namesake cocktail, but their Rye Flip is also delicious.  It’s a trendy bar that has an upscale-ish and modern vibe to it, but with friendly bar keeps and warm atmosphere. Add this to your list of cocktail bars to visit!

The Ward 8 cocktail: rye, lemon and orange juice, and grenadine.

So, what’d you think? What would you have done differently if you were writing a one-day itinerary for the North End? Share your thoughts with us in our comments section. Cheers!

Alex: I like to make the most of my day, especially when visiting a new place. My itineraries tend to pack in as much as possible – attractions, museums, etc. – with stops for a drink between destinations. I love visiting main sites, but do my best to locate something off the beaten path that other tourists may not know about.

Fort Point: An Innovative Itinerary?

Boston is growing, and part of that growth includes a push by the city to become a greater hub for innovation. Kendell gets a lot of attention on this front, with Microsoft, Google, and now Twitter opening up offices.  But Boston proper is also involved, and it’s pushing the Fort Point neighborhood as the city’s “official” innovation center.  It’s even gone out of its way to christen Fort Point as the “Innovation District,” so you know it’s true.

Fort Point is a subsection of the larger Seaport District, all of which has a lot going on these days.  No longer just the shitty part of town with ample parking, the Seaport District has quickly developed into a cool mix of start-ups and happening bars nestled between classic brick buildings and modern skyscrapers. Truly innovative. Home to museums, parks, fine dining, my dentist, and the best post office in the whole city, there are plenty of things to do here.  Here we go!

Itinerary:

1. Morning: Boston Tea Party Museum
2. Afternoon: Lunch at Lucky’s Lounge, followed by a brewery tour at Harpoon
3. Evening: A nice seafood dinner, then drinks at … Drink 

Morning: Tea Party

Everyone knows that the Boston Tea Party took place in Boston, but do you know where?  You can probably guess with reasonable certainty that it was in Fort Point, and you’d be right. High five. Of course, back then it wasn’t called Fort Point – the event took place at what was formally known as Griffins Wharf.  That wharf no longer exists, but a museum fully dedicated to this celebrated act of vandalism has been built near that former location.

The obvious question everyone asks when they hear about the Boston Tea Party is,
“how many fish were killed by this senseless act?”  No one at the museum answered my question when I went this past weekend, so I can’t tell you.  But I did learn lots of other interesting facts during my trip, including the fact that George Washington condemned the Boston Tea Party when it occurred.  Psh, what does he know.

The Beaver

Open seven days a week, museum tours run every 30 minutes, starting at 10:00 am.  Tickets cost $25.00, but Massachusetts residents receive free admission when accompanied by an adult guest who has purchased a regular price ticket.  All you need to do is a.) find a friend, then b.) signup for and print your free hometown pass prior to going.

Afternoon: Lunch and Beers

If you’re anything like me, you’re probably famished after throwing all that tea overboard and while screaming “Huzzah” and frightening children with your over-exuberance for history. Time for lunch.

There are a lot of places around here to eat here, but since we’re looking for a quick bite at a reasonable price, I’m going to throw in Lucky’s Lounge as my recommendation.  You’re probably thinking, “hey, isn’t Lucky’s that bar that’s impossible to find on Congress street?”  Sure is!  Often mistaken for an entrance to a crack den, Lucky’s is a cool bar that also serves up a fine lunch.  Once you’ve managed to find the place, sit yourself in one of their casual booths on the near side of the restaurant (I prefer this brighter area to the darker part of the restaurant) and order a pulled pork sandwich and whatever’s on their rotating tap.

Yeah … it’s somewhere in there.

Did those lunchtime beers whet your whistle for more beer? Then get ready for a powerwalk, because we’re heading to Harpoon Brewery for a tour.  It’s about a mile away, so I suppose you could cab it over if you’re lazy.  Or, you can get ALL FANCY and green on everyone and rent a HubWay bike.  Just keep in mind that you’re going to be drinking, and nobody likes a drunk bicyclist.

The Harpoon Brewery tour is a good time, but the real reason to come to here is for their beautiful new beer hall. I’ve been back a few times since it opened last year, and always have a good time. They keep it simple here, with a long bar in the center and plain wooden picnic tables surrounding it. Bartenders here are the brewers themselves, so you’ll see the guy who just poured your draft run over after to operate the keg machine.  Lots of great beer is available (so long as you like Harpoon), but the food selection is pretty limited (I hope you like pretzels!).  You can even mix-and-match here: order a “Storm Trooper” and they’ll serve you a mix of Harpoon’s Leviathan IPA and their UFO White.

Harpoon’s Beer Hall

Evening: Dinner and Drink

Where to eat now that you’ve spent the afternoon imbibing?  Again, there are tons of places you could eat around here, but since we’re by the water I think it’s time to get some seafood.  There are several pricier places in the area, but you can get a decent bite to eat at the reasonably priced Yankee Lobster Company, which just so happens to be right next door to the Harpoon Brewery.  You could also walk a little further down Northern Ave. and check out Legal Harborside, located in a much nicer building (with a water view!) than Yankee Lobster Company.

Enough with the food review – it’s time to wrap this itinerary up with a drink.  Like in my Fenway itinerary, we’re going to end this evening with cocktails.  We’re heading back towards Lucky’s, but this time we’re going across the street to the famous mixologist destination: Drink.  Drink is a very cool establishment – the whole schtick here is they have no cocktail menus, and display no alcohol behind the bar. Instead, you’re expected to speak with the bartender (oops, sorry, mixologist), tell them the flavors and spirit bases you enjoy, and then they will make you something based off their interpretations.   You can, of course, request a specific drink but that’s not as fun as discovering something new.

Drinks at Drink

Come early or be prepared to wait.  There is no cover charge, and while I generally refuse to wait in line this is one of those places where I’ll make an exception.  I’ll do that for a bar that was a finalist for “World’s Best Cocktail Bar” at this year’s Tales of the Cocktail.

Anything you would have done differently if you were writing a one-day itinerary for Seaport / Fort Point?  Share your thoughts with us in our comments section.  Cheers!

Alex: I like to make the most of my day, especially when visiting a new place. My itineraries tend to pack in as much as possible – attractions, museums, etc. – with stops for a drink between destinations. I love visiting main sites, but do my best to locate something off the beaten path that other tourists may not know about.

Fenway / Kenmore : A Toast to History

The Fenway / Kenmore of today looks very different than even a few years ago. Major construction highlights include Boylston West (currently under construction, and the future home of Boston’s first Target), the recently approved expansion of the Landmark Center (which would house Boston’s first Wegman’s and likely be the final death kneel for the area’s shitty Shaw’s), and the potential construction of Fenway Center (which would help bring together the neighborhood after the Mass Pike effectively split it in two).

Of course, plenty of changes have already occurred and left Fenway as one of the fastest growing and trendiest neighborhoods in the city. Ugly garages and parking lots? Replaced with beautiful, new apartment buildings. Transportation issues? How about a brand new commuter rail station. Johnnies Foodmaster? Gone, recently replaced by a new Whole Foods. Rats? NOPE FUCK YOU WE’RE STILL HERE.

Despite all the changes, Fenway has a lot of history left to it. For example, did you know that Audubon Circle was designed in the 1860’s by Frederick Law Olmsted? Have you even heard of Audubon Circle before this post? No? Don’t worry, a lot of people visiting Fenway make a beeline straight off the T to Fenway Park without exploring the rest of the neighborhood. This itinerary will give you a day’s worth of things to do in Fenway / Kenmore beyond the typical day at the ballpark.

Itinerary:
1. Morning: Breakfast at Tatte
2. Late Morning: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
3. Afternoon: Lunch at Tasty Burger, then walking the Emerald Necklace
4. Evening: Dinner at Thaitation, then “classy” bar crawl to Citizen Public House, Eastern Standard and The Hawthorne.

Morning: Breakfast at Tatte
Since we already brought up Audubon Circle, this seems as good a place as any to start our day. Audubon Circle straddles the Brookline / Boston line, and is a rough midpoint between Kenmore Square and Coolidge Corner. Get off at St. Mary’s T stop (on the C Line) and you’re right there.

Tatte is a great bakery with a couple of locations around Boston, but the Audubon Circle location was their first shop. It’s small (only a few tables indoors), but on a warm summer morning you can usually find outdoor seating available.

So what should you get here? This particular location doesn’t have a full brunch menu like their other locations (although on the weekends they offer breakfast sandwiches and Israeli breakfast, but I haven’t tried these), so I would recommend going with one of their many pastries. Their Croissants are delicious, and you can’t go wrong with their Danishes. Apparently Tatte’s specialty is something they call a “nut box,” which I’m sure is delicious but I can’t vouch for that since it would kill me instantaneously (the only thing more deadly would be sprinkling cat hair on top).

The Nut Box. Anaphylactic delight.

Order yourself a delicious coffee to go with the pastry and enjoy. Don’t forget to pick up one of those cards for stamps while you’re there so you can get free coffee in the future!

Late Morning: Get cultured at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
Google Maps tells me this museum is in Fenway (it is located on Fenway Street …), so I’m adding it to this itinerary. Either way, it’s only a 15 minute walk from Tatte. You can get there by walking along the Emerald Necklace, which is the famous chain of parks designed by … Frederick Law Olmsted! HISTORY!

The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum is housed in a gorgeous building that is every bit as impressive as the art collection itself. In the center of the building is an indoor courtyard and garden – you can look out onto the courtyard from arched balconies lining each floor of the museum. While there are many well-known artists on exhibit here (including Rembrandt, Michelangelo, Raphael, Botticelli, and Sargent), my favorite part of the museum is just relaxing alongside the courtyard. Plan to spend a few hours here.

The museum is usually open until 5PM, but on the third Thursday of every month they offer something called … wait for it … Third Thursdays. As their website describes it, this is a late-night program “full of music, art, and conversation designed to connect young professionals, artists, and college students with each other and the Gardner.” I’ve been and it’s worth checking out. They have live music, food and a cash bar. If you bring your student ID its $5, unless you are a participating school in which case it’s free to get in. Otherwise this will set you back $15, but still worth checking out.

Afternoon: Lunch, then more walking!
You’re probably tired of all this art and culture and educating yourself business, so it’s time for lunch. Fenway / Kenmore has a ton to offer

when it comes to food, but if you’re like me and looking for a quick meal that won’t break the bank I’d recommend Tasty Burger. Ask what their special burger of the day is … you may end up with a treat like that bad boy pictured below. That was something they called a “State Fair,” and yes, that’s a deep fried burger. Gave me the meat sweats real bad, but how often do you get to eat fried burgers in Boston? Wash that down with one of their many craft beer options and a side of onion rings, all for around $15.

Oohh baby!

Boston is a walking city, and after eating 1000+ calories of Tasty Burger you’ll probably want to walk it off. The Emerald Necklace that I mentioned earlier wraps through the entirety of Fenway, and there are some real nice parks to explore there. Part of it includes the Fenway Victory Gardens, which I’ve always enjoyed walking through (especially in the summer). You could also consider walking from Tasty Burger through Kenmore and towards Storrow Drive, where you can walk along Charles.

Evening: Dinner, then drinks
Like I said, there are lots of fantastic food options in Fenway / Kenmore to choose from, but for this itinerary I’m going to go with one of my favorite Thai restaurants in Boston: Thaitation. In addition to a fun name, this place has my favorite shrimp fresh rolls. I normally get Pad Thai (without ground peanuts but with peanut sauce, because I’m annoying like that), and Thai iced tea. Dinner for two will cost around $30-$40.

By now you probably want to get a drink. Lucky for you, Fenway has a mix of everything from sports bars to dive bars to classy cocktail joints. Let’s keep things classy and go with cocktails tonight. From Thaitation, make your way to Citizen Public House (lots of whiskies to choose from), then continue on for a mini bar crawl towards Kenmore Square, where you can finish with drinks at Eastern Standard and the Hawthorne. Drinks at each are around $13 each, but you’ve earned it.

Enjoy the rest of your night!

Alex: I like to make the most of my day, especially when visiting a new place. My itineraries tend to pack in as much as possible – attractions, museums, etc. – with stops for a drink between destinations. I love visiting main sites, but do my best to locate something off the beaten path that other tourists may not know about.